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《The Ocean Engineering》 2002-02
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A rapid response to 9914 typhoon-induced storm wave force made by the beach profiles of Xiamen Island

CAI Feng 1, SU Xian ze 1, YANG Shun liang 2, GAO Zhi yong 1(1.The Third Institute of Oceanography , SOA, Xiamen 361005, China; 2. Fujian Institute of Oceanology, Xiamen 361012, China)  
The beach deformation and erosion during 9914 typhoon against Xiamen Island are studied in the paper, according to both the repeated topographic survey of the beach profiles of Xiamen Island and the determined data of tidal level and wind elements for 9914 typhoon. It is drawn from the study that rapid changes of the beach topography commonly take place due to the attack of wave forces. Beach profile deformation along the east coast of the Island is more radical where the retreat of ordinary berm crest may come up to 25 m, the above MSL profile erosion may reach 30 m 3/m, the under MSL profile accretion caused by mass transport of waves may attain 17 m 3/m. This unusual onshore offshore transport indicates that the beach profiles made a rapid response to both the action of the storm wave force and that of the storm surge. As for the net longshore transport rate, the north coast occupies the first place; the south coast comes the second; and the east coast is the lowest. From the south coast to the east coast, the net longshore transport rate becomes gradually lower, but the beach profile deformation is strengthened progressively. All this was caused by 9914 typhoon against Xiamen Island mainly with an easterly wind.
【Fund】: 福建省自然科学基金资助项目 (D9910 0 2 1) ;; 国家海洋局科技司资助项目
【CateGory Index】: P731.2
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