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《Marine Geology & Quaternary Geology》 2018-05
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Experimental study on beach surface variation of graded sand beach under wave action

ZHU Wangping;ZHENG Jianguo;XU Guohui;SUN Changling;YANG Yadi;YUE Shuai;TAO Wei;College of Environmental Science and Engineering,Ocean University of China;Key Laboratory of Marine Environment and Ecology,Ministry of Education;  
The sand beach is a depositional system composed of graded sands under the sorting of wave action,which decides the quality of a beach.In this paper,flume experiments under periodic waves with different wave heights are conducted to study the variation in beach sediments under wave dynamics.Results show that the bar type of beach formed by the full grade sediments under the same wave height,and the surface sediment sorting in the area from wave breaking point to the sea is inversely proportional to the wave period.Under the same periodic wave(T=1.68 s),the full grade beach will form a sand bar-type beach under the action of big waves(H=13.2 cm),and a berm type beach under the action of wavelet high waves(H=6.7 cm),and the sediment sorting on the beach surface is better.Under the same wave power,however,the sand bar surface sediment of the middle and fine grade beach and the coarse and medium grade beach is thicker than the back wave;and the coarse-grained sediment of the coarse and fine grading beach is concentrated between the sand bar and the beach top.
【Fund】: 国家自然科学基金项目“海底粉质土液化重建地层特征及其风暴浪动力强度研究”(41576039)
【CateGory Index】: P731.22;P737.1
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